Dura Ace 7700 Rear Derailleur Manually

This article is your guide to work on Shimano and Shimano-compatible 9-speed cassettes (sprocket clusters) -- replacing worn sprockets, making subsitutions, and building custom combinations. The tables below list current models from major brands, and some discontinued models. Gives more general information about cassettes, and on how to upgrade from an older cassette. In case you're not sure whether your bike has a cassette Freehub or a thread-on freewheel, Cassettes listed in the below will fit most Shimano and Shimano-compatible freehub bodies, with the following exceptions: • with taller splines work only with 10-speed sprockets • The narrower 7-speed body would require you to or or 9 sprockets from a 10-speed cassette.

May 26, 2010. As with all rear derailleurs, the accuracy and crispness of shifting response will depend on how closely the upper pulley tracks the cogs. With Shimano, set the B tension screw so that the upper jockey wheel is as close as possible without touching, in the big cog and small ring. (Then check again in the big. Find great deals on eBay for dura ace 7700 derailleur and dura ace 7800 derailleur. Shop with confidence.

A simpler alternative is to with an 8/9/10-speed body. • 11-tooth sprockets require a ' freehub body and lockring. • The body has four special sprockets, with 9, 10, 11 and 13 teeth.

The other, larger sprockets are standard. Colored backgrounds in the cells of the tables below identify assemblies of two or more sprockets on a to save weight. These sprockets cannot be separated from one another.

There's a tradeoff: the more sprockets on a spider, the more you will have to pay for a replacement even if you only wear out one of them! Assemblies of the same sprocket sizes shown in the same background color are compatible with one another, though they may differ in materials and finish.

Sprockets on spiders can be replaced by flat steel sprockets with spacers sandwiched between them, and vice versa. Some Shimano flat steel sprockets and spacers are in bolted or riveted assemblies, indicated by tooth counts in italics in the table. The bolts or rivets only serve to keep sprockets and spacers in order when the cassette is not installed on the freehub. To replace sprockets or build up custom combinations. Model numbers covered in 2010 Shimano product literature are in boldface, like this: CS‑7700. Older model numbers are included, if verified, in italics, like this: CS ‑HG70 ‑9 and if not, in plain text, like this: CS ‑5500.

The ramps and shaped teeth of Shimano sprockets, and their imitations, are designed to improve shifting in the stock progressions, but it is possible to mix and match sprockets with some small penalty in smoothness of shifting.. Individual 9-speed sprockets 16 teeth or smaller are interchangeable between series except that those for a two-tooth jump to the next-larger sprocket have two shifting locations, while those for a one-tooth jump only have one, in a different location. 15T sprocket for one-tooth jump 15T sprocket for two-tooth jump Many Shimano 9-speed sprocket combinations are identified by two-letter codes such as ' ar' or ' be'. Cassettes with the same code always have the same tooth counts, though they may use different spider or bolted combinations.

SRAM, IRD, Miche and SunRace also offer 9-speed Shimano-compatible cassettes -- see additional sections that follow the Shimano section. Shimano parts lists. IRD has many combinations that are different from Shimano's. Some combinations are rather nice, and others have some uneven steps. ES series cassettes have the four largest sprockets on aluminum spiders, two sprockets each. The spiders are indicated by background colors in the table below.

The same background color indicates probable compatibility. Alloy cassettes have the two smallest sprockets in steel, the rest CNC machined out of one block of aluminum alloy -- 'recommended for racing only' according to the IRD Web site: they will wear out quickly. Harris Cyclery does not stock IRD cassettes as of this writing. They are included here for the sake of completeness.

Miche makes two cassettes to fit Shimano hubs. Miche also sells individual sprockets in all sizes, useful in building up. Harris Cyclery does not stock Miche cassettes or sprockets as of this writing.

They are included here for the sake of completeness. Code 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 32 34 12 13 15 17 19 21 23 26 12 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 Sprockets may be riveted or bolted together, but the rivets or bolts can be removed to use the sprockets in other combinations. SRAM 9-speed Combinations. The sprockets of SRAM combinations which are similar to each other are probably interchangeable while maintaining smooth shifting. The PG-990 series cassettes use sprockets on a spider.

There have been reliability issues reported with the spiders. The XG-999 has 7 sprockets CNC machined from a single block of steel, for light weight.

It ain't cheap! Harris Cyclery stocks some SRAM cassettes, where they fill gaps in Shimano's offerings.

The links to technical specs are to the Internet Archive. SRAM may no longer stock replacement parts. (see page 34 ff.) (see pages 28-29).

Harris Cyclery does not stock SunRace cassettes as of this writing. They are included here for the sake of completeness. Because most SunRace cassettes skip the same sprocket sizes, it is fair to assume that the sprockets are interchangeable while maintaining smooth shifting. The MD7 8-speed cassettes with 9-speed spacing have a chain protector in place of the innermost sprocket, like Shimano Nexave. Sprockets are steel. The different model numbers with the same sprockets differ in the finish: MZ7: TI-alloy nitride/Ti Nitride MX5: Sandblasted satin M96: Sandblasted satin/ED Black M96S: Zinc The catalog listed below is available online only from a source in the Czech Republic, or on our site. The cassettes may not be easy to order.

Descargar Roxio Creator Plus Dell Editions. Code 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 32 34 CSR96 9AQ 12 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 CSM96 9AS CSMX5 9AS 11 12 13 14 16 18 21 24 28 CSMD7 8AS 8-speed, 9-speed spacing 11 12 14 16 18 21 24 28 CSMD7 8AT 8-speed, 9-speed spacing 11 12 14 16 18 21 24 30 CSM96 9AU, CSM96S 9AU CSMX5 9AU CSMZ7 9AU 11 12 14 16 18 21 24 28 32 CSM96 9AV CSMX5 9AV CSMZ7 9AV 11 12 14 16 18 21 24 28 34 CSR96 9BQ 12 13 14 15 17 19 21 23 25 SunRace cassettes and individual sprockets are compatible with Shimano. Shifting will not be as smooth when mixing brands in the same cassette. Building Custom Cassettes. Shimano wants you to use one of its standard combinations, and offers a wide-enough choice to suit the needs of most cyclists, but you don't have to if you don't want to!

It is not difficult to customize Shimano cassettes. If you substitute an un-approved cog, Uniglide or Hyperglide, SRAM, SunRace, IRD, Miche, or some other brand, it will still work, but the shift to/from that cog will probably not be as smooth as a Hyperglide shift normally is. Since people managed without Hyperglide for several decades, this shouldn't scare you off.

In particular, if you substitute the top or bottom sprocket, you will only have one shift that isn't HG; shifts to or from the extreme sprockets tend to be less troublesome than intermediate shifts anyway. Shimano cassettes that don't use spiders have most of the sprockets held together by 3 small bolts or rivets. These are not essential. Their function is convenience, in allowing the cassette to be installed slightly more easily.

To make a custom cassette, you will often need to remove the screws or rivets. Just discard them, they are unnecessary in practice. • Some cassettes use screws with a 4 mm hex head. These can be removed with an adjustable wrench.

• Some cassettes use screws with a 2 mm Allen head. These are frequently mistaken for rivets. • The easiest way to remove rivets is to grind off the heads where they protrude from the largest sprocket.

I generally do this on a bench grinder. Harris Cyclery sells some custom cassettes, with sprocket combinations you may find useful: You might also build up one of your own.

Generally, the smallest sprocket needs to be one with a built-in spacer, designed for the top-gear position. While you can't insert or remove a sprocket within a module, you can add sprockets on either side of these modules. For example, if you want a 13-32 9-speed, you can start with a 12-27: • Replace the 12 and 13 with a top-position 13. • Add a spacer and a 32 after the 27 (you don't need to buy the spacer, because you can use the spacer that came between the original flat 13 and the 14.) 7-speed and 8-speed sprockets are slightly wider than 9-speed sprockets, and the spacers are wider too --see. Using one or two 7- or 8-speed sprockets in a 9-speed cassette probably won't cause problems, though you might compensate by using narrower spacers next to these sprockets.

The smaller sprockets (11, 12, 13) that gve built-in spacers should ideally be matched, but even this isn't generally a problem in practice. Taking apart stock cassettes is a convenient way to find sprockets to build up your own combination. Miche sells individual sprockets, though they may not be easy to order. The catalog linked below is in Italian. • • • Articles by and Others • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •.

Shifts crisply and quickly through the other 9 cogs. But will not drop into the smallest cog. Well, 1 out of 4 times it will after about 10 pedal rotations and a lot of chatter. Or, if I manually 'nudge' the derailleur, it'll drop down.

Here's what I've tried to rectify the issue. Adjusted limit screw - actually dialed it out so far, I took the screw out. Replaced the cable and housing 3. Made sure the loop is not too tight - it's actually, bigger than the other bikes I compared it to 4. Double (quadruple) checked the orientation of the lock nut retainer - the backside nut/clip 5.

Cleaned the drivetrain 6. Inspected the chain - length, kinks, etc. Inspected the derailleur - moves smoothly, no bends, etc. Inspected hanger - straight and tight 9.

Removed cassette; made sure correct spacer is there - not missing, doubled, etc. I had a friend over to make sure I wasn't missing something simple - he's a better mechanic than me - and he repeated everything I did. With the same results. Is it possible the derailleur just worn out?

I have to be missing something. Shifts crisply and quickly through the other 9 cogs. But will not drop into the smallest cog.

Well, 1 out of 4 times it will after about 10 pedal rotations and a lot of chatter. Or, if I manually 'nudge' the derailleur, it'll drop down. Here's what I've tried to rectify the issue.

Adjusted limit screw - actually dialed it out so far, I took the screw out. Replaced the cable and housing 3. Made sure the loop is not too tight - it's actually, bigger than the other bikes I compared it to 4. Double (quadruple) checked the orientation of the lock nut retainer - the backside nut/clip 5.

Cleaned the drivetrain 6. Inspected the chain - length, kinks, etc. Inspected the derailleur - moves smoothly, no bends, etc. Inspected hanger - straight and tight 9. Removed cassette; made sure correct spacer is there - not missing, doubled, etc.

I had a friend over to make sure I wasn't missing something simple - he's a better mechanic than me - and he repeated everything I did. With the same results. Is it possible the derailleur just worn out?

I have to be missing something. Thoughts?by this do you mean the 'cable fixing bolt & plate'? You know what i'm talking about, yeah? By this do you mean the 'cable fixing bolt & plate'? You know what i'm talking about, yeah?

Yes - that's the term I was looking for. I probably checked that 10 x. UPDATE: Swapped the 7800 derailleur with another 7800 derailleur that was working perfectly on the other bike, with. Uhm - different results.

The bike will now shift into the smallest cog BUT requires two shifts to get it to move up to #2. From there, it's smooth up to #7. Then it chatters a ton as it fails to move to #8. A couple turns of the barrel and it moves up nicely through #10.

But, then it requires two shifts to go back down. This is where I feel like I've got OCD - must check cable fixing bolt & plate. Again, and again.

Because it is really behaving like that's the issue. Three of us looked at it.

Again and again. Two of us took turns trying to tune the derailleur - starting in big ring, smallest cog.

One click - chatter, chatter - slowly add tension 'till chain moves to #2. Chain would move smoothly up to #7 then same results. We'd start in the small ring and work backwards - same result. The odd thing was how the shifter required 2 shifts to 'change direction', e.g. It would shift up, up, up, up, fine - with one click. Or, down, down, down, etc.

With one click. But any time - anywhere on the cassette - I went up, up, up, down, that would require an extra shift, e.g. Do dump one cog. At least for me - first time I've experienced this.

At 10:30 pm last night, we threw in the towel. 'You have two options.

Buy shifters.' We came to the conclusion that the shifter is worn out. Because when you exhaust your wrenching abilities, you solve it with expert help or new parts. This is where I feel like I've got OCD - must check cable fixing bolt & plate. Again, and again.

Because it is really behaving like that's the issue. Three of us looked at it. Again and againWhat are you checking the fixing bolt clamp position against? The drawing in the Shimano instructions? I ask because the drawing shows the derailleur as seen from below (or with the bike turned upside-down) and from the non-drive side of the bike. This is an unusual view, so it's not that hard to get it wrong.

The hangar was just replaced - on a carbon frame. I'm assuming that rules out frame/hangar bend.

Hard to bend carbon. But, to your point, we did suspect a bent derailleur cage. Until we swapped it. When we cut the cable, the derailleur did not drop do the smallest cog.

Which had us re-re-re-recheck the high set screw. It is time for the doctor and marketing guy to bow to the shop mechanic. We're stumped.If the hanger was replaced, it probably isn't straight.

Replaceable hangers are not precise and are made of soft aluminum. They must be checked with a hanger gauge after installation, and should be checked anytime you get suspicious shifting because they bend easily.

You absolutely cannot see the amount of bend that will cause shifting problems, and they have to be square horizontally and vertically. If the hanger was replaced, it probably isn't straight. Replaceable hangers are not precise and are made of soft aluminum. They must be checked with a hanger gauge after installation, and should be checked anytime you get suspicious shifting because they bend easily. You absolutely cannot see the amount of bend that will cause shifting problems, and they have to be square horizontally and vertically.Good call. Not having such as gauge. And not knowing how to use one, I think this solidifies the decision to run it over to the shop.

And, we'll mention to the mechanic that we suspect a misaligned hanger. I'd suggest first trying to figure out if the problem is in the front or the rear of the bike.

Shift to the largest cog, (23, 25 whatever.) 2. Stop pedaling and shift all the way to the 11t. This should completely slack the cable. Slip the housing out of frame at the rear of the bike so there is no tension on the cable.

Pedal the bike and the derailleur should drop to the 11t. Keep pedaling and at the same time use your hand to carefully move the derailleur up the cassette and then let it go again while continuing to pedal. Watch the derailleur after you let it go.

Does it go to the 11T? If it does go to the 11t does it go in one continuous motion or does it hesitate in the 12 before going to the 11t. If it cleanly goes to the 11t you know the problem is not with the derailleur or hanger, but with the cable, housing or shifter. If it does not go cleanly into the 11t you know the problem is with the derailleur or hanger. Once you know if the problem is in the back half or front half there are other checks to help narrow down exactly where the problem is.

If you post the results of this test I'll be happy to give you some others to help pinpoint the problem. I'd suggest first trying to figure out if the problem is in the front or the rear of the bike. Shift to the largest cog, (23, 25 whatever.) 2. Stop pedaling and shift all the way to the 11t. This should completely slack the cable.

Slip the housing out of frame at the rear of the bike so there is no tension on the cable. Pedal the bike and the derailleur should drop to the 11t. Keep pedaling and at the same time use your hand to carefully move the derailleur up the cassette and then let it go again while continuing to pedal. Watch the derailleur after you let it go. Does it go to the 11T? If it does go to the 11t does it go in one continuous motion or does it hesitate in the 12 before going to the 11t. If it cleanly goes to the 11t you know the problem is not with the derailleur or hanger, but with the cable, housing or shifter.

If it does not go cleanly into the 11t you know the problem is with the derailleur or hanger. Once you know if the problem is in the back half or front half there are other checks to help narrow down exactly where the problem is. If you post the results of this test I'll be happy to give you some others to help pinpoint the problem.^this^ is some good solid advice. I'd suggest first trying to figure out if the problem is in the front or the rear of the bike.

Shift to the largest cog, (23, 25 whatever.) 2. Stop pedaling and shift all the way to the 11t. This should completely slack the cable. Slip the housing out of frame at the rear of the bike so there is no tension on the cable. Pedal the bike and the derailleur should drop to the 11t.

Keep pedaling and at the same time use your hand to carefully move the derailleur up the cassette and then let it go again while continuing to pedal. Watch the derailleur after you let it go.

Does it go to the 11T? If it does go to the 11t does it go in one continuous motion or does it hesitate in the 12 before going to the 11t. If it cleanly goes to the 11t you know the problem is not with the derailleur or hanger, but with the cable, housing or shifter. If it does not go cleanly into the 11t you know the problem is with the derailleur or hanger. Once you know if the problem is in the back half or front half there are other checks to help narrow down exactly where the problem is. If you post the results of this test I'll be happy to give you some others to help pinpoint the problem.Thanks woz. If my friend (who owns the bike) hasn't taken that bike to the shop yet - ^that^ is our next step.

Regardless, I'm keeping your 6-step test in my bag of tricks for next time.